I’m chilling at the Sulik home today. They left early this morning and my flight leaves early tomorrow morning – like 2:20 in the morning early. As I wander their now quiet house, occasionally I’m tempted to sing Que Sera Sera. Some how, this grand house makes me feel like I’m Doris Day in The Man Who Knew Too Much. I think I’ll have to watch that film again – will be interesting to see what its like for the main characters as they navigate trouble in Morocco.
Been listening to the calls to prayer. Woke to them this morning at 4:45 am, and just heard the last round of calls – and its about 6:40 pm here. Its interesting how my Yahoo! Homepage has a listing to the calls to prayer on the upper right corner. I’ll miss this.
I confess when I heard my colleague Pat Robinson from Iowa State left for Saudi 12 years ago I thought she was crazy to go to a part of the world that I knew so little about. How do they treat women there? When Jeff left with his family for Education City a few years ago, I knew a little more, but not much more about this corner of the world.
A few more calls to prayer – They are beautiful.
As Americans, we don’t know much. We see a smattering of news on the region. We couple that with stories of Muslims around the world. We hear about a fanatic who is caught in a sting. We wonder for a woman facing a stoning in Iran – and it just confuses the picture more.
In some respects, I feel I understand a little more about this place. But in others, I’m troubled. For so many in UAE and Doha, unless you are a minority national – and in Dubai that’s less than 15% of the population, you may not have residency. You may not own property. You can raise your children and your grandchildren and they will not have residency. They will still claim your citizenship generations to come. And that’s if you are able to have your partner and children here.
I was surprised in Dubai: So much wealth. Where are the poor people? Where are the homeless? You don't see them.
To be here, you must be sponsored. Usually by an employer. IF you make enough money that you can support them, you may sponsor your spouse. A lot easier if you’re a male sponsoring a woman – but complicated for the man sponsored by his wife. Met a couple today in that bind where the woman is sponsored but he has difficulty getting full time, sponsored employment. But still, they’re pretty good all things considered.
For the laborers, they come here from their own countries for better wages. But listen to the stories of the Dubai Taxi Drivers or look out the back window at the workers camps (which look a heck of a lot like the shanties in the townships of South Africa or the slums of India. At least there are AC units on these buildings.)
Some of the laborers here in Qatar get 6 weeks of vacation every two years. Translation – they see their families for six weeks every two years. Michelle is fine with the attention her children get. The maintenance men and gardeners adore the children. She realizes that they may very well have a child of that age that they don’t get to see grow up – so she welcomes them.
Rachel got to know our server at the Iranian restaurant around the corner: Her husband died in a car accident. In order to support their four year old, she left her child with her mother and came to Dubai. This is the first time that Rachel has been away from her girls for so long – and its been challenging. She cannot imagine making this choice.
And that is the privilege that we enjoy. As Americans. As Westerners. As the Educated.
Been reading the news here locally – interesting to read the comments too. In Iraq (just across the Gulf) a cleric is calling for the closure of bars and liquor shops in Baghdad (even in conservative Qatar, there are ways of getting alcohol - I believe a license is involved) and calling to resist the “ drift towards ignorance, corruption, lewdness, to make our society rot like the West."
Rot like the West?
On the one hand, I feel pretty safe here. But I’m an educated American.
There are definitely a lot of pros to being in this culture, particularly in an educational perspective - but that's if you're lucky enough to get an education. But I’m struggling to get my mind around it – there’s a HUGE gap between the haves and have-nots – and a lot of what is had by the haves is financed on the cheap labor of the have-nots.
There is a culture of education in this region on a model of rote memorization: Memorize the Koran. But not too far from here, only the men are educated and they are only educated on the one sacred text. And life is not very good for my sisters there.
And if you’re spending so much time and energy on keeping half the population in place and maintaining the status quo (friends, this can apply to just about everywhere) – how are we really using our resources for the future?
I remember a conversation I had with a colleague in South Africa. We had debated the pros and cons of Feminism. He had argued that a traditional, patriarchal culture protects the women. They marry, they have a security net of their husbands and families. As we walked back to our guest house, we saw a meter maid – a woman who’s job was to collect pennies for parked cars. I looked at my friend: How’s the system working for her? How’s the system working for women who don’t have the luxury of a committed partner? How does it catch and support the women when the men go away? How does it work for the women we don’t see?
I’m not sure that the ethical issues here are any worse than elsewhere. They are different.
I hold to what I know- and believe the best hope is in education. Students can be transformed by education. (I was going to say Privileged Student - but I'm starting to think that's a redundant phrase.) They will have influence. They will lead. Will they see? Will they grant access? Will they serve?
Or is education just an individual investment?
The reason many of these programs are here is certainly not only an investment in the individuals. A common theme is an investment in the country and the region...and as is more apparent to this educator - an investment in the global citizen.
Still chewing. Still digesting.
Education, Insha'Allah.